B is for Basque Country
Pays Basque País Vasco Euskal Herria
The train from Biarritz to Paris this Wednesday 29th of April is full of stars; high-heeled, designer handbagged, journalists and high fashions. Supposedly a big moment in fash history, Chanel has returned to the Biarritz high street and to celebrate, Matthieu Blazy decided to show his Croisière collection in the Casino de Biarritz. An event spanning over a couple of days, costing 36 millions euros (apparently), for a show that lasted 20 minutes. I’ve seen the pictures and it was beautiful but I was in the Pays Basque this week for another, more spectacular event (believe it or not).
My dear friends Hattie and Luke got married this weekend in the village that they call home, Sauveterre-de-Béarn, in the magical Bearn countryside an hour or so away from the coast. I wrote last year about visiting Luke in his kitchen at the legendary La Legende and now one year later his perfect restaurant hosted the perfect wedding and made way for a perfect week’s holiday in and around the Basque country. This part of France will always hold a dear place in my heart as it was here that I made many a fantastic friend and spent a long hot summer cooking in the delicious duck egg blue greenhouse.
This time round, I was able to be the tour guide and show this special place to my boyf, driving round in our little Peugeot 107, eating, drinking, and swimming. This area has become a pilgrimage for many culinary geeks, as the quality of produce from fish to meat to veg is next to none. A climate that cultures the best of the best in terms of ingredients and chefs that know how to simply transform and show off these products. All that to say, we’ve had a crazy week of eating and I thought I’d share all of the fantastic places here, so that everyone can go and visit this wicked region !!!!
Denen Kanttua
Arrive straight off the train at whatever time of day and come straight here. Great lunch set menu, even better gildas and vermouth at 18h. Try the white vermouth, its a bit salty and matches perfectly the bouchée parfaite of the anchovy-olive-guindilla combo.
Petit Grill Basque
A pilgrimage spot of sorts. On a mid April Wednesday evening when the whole of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is snoozing and we can scarcely find a pre-dinner drink spot open, the Petit Grill Basque is radiating heat and noise from half way down the street. I’d go as far as to say it’s worth 4 hours on the train from Paris to eat dinner here, swim in the sea, and go home the next day. Notable seasonal dish, the lagrimas with a poached egg. These little peas, also known as teardrop peas or green caviar, are mini pods of sweetness, served with a bouillon and poached egg. Nothing beats it.
Geralds Bar
I already raved about this spot two years ago but always worth a lunch resa when you’re in San Seb before attacking the Pintxos. Set lunch at 27,50eu with a very happy surprise of Branston pickle served with a Basque piment d’espelette cheese at the end. It’s always nice to taste home away from home.
Extepub
Old man pintxos bar with 1,50eu cider poured from a height and juicy, chunky gildas.
Bar Desy
To finish your pintxos tour, walk to the other side of the water, a helpful digesting walk, to Bar Desy, and share a Txuleta burger. A soft pillowy burger with cream cheese in a brioche bun, so light (?!) and fluffy and different from all of the other bites you’ll have eaten over the past hours. Served with a glass of Cantillon Belgian cider.
La Legende
Even more worth the drive than Petit Grill is worth the train. My favourite restaurant with fave people. Even more so now, as after the beautiful wedding (no thanks to Brexit) Hattie is allowed to live in France and therefore, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot her and Luke cooking together at La Legende.
Hattie and Luke opened the evening portion of their wedding to the village and surrounding villagers, hosting their “Fete de l’Amour”, having posted a few flyers around and spread the word, the village was buzzing with amorous joy for the days preceding. Luke told me, that he went to drink a coffee in a nearby village bar, and an elderly lady at the bar asked him if he'd be going to the Fete de l’amour, only for him to reply that its his amour, his celebration! More people, more love.
Elizaberriko
Slightly jaded after a wedding, you do have to eat eat eat. So we schlepped up to Elizaberriko at Hasparren and ordered with our eyes bigger than our bellies. Big fat pork chop, washed down with a saline crisp Basque white. My lovely old colleague Gwladys has concocted a great wine list to help us discover lots of regional wines.
Pluviose
A one man show in a tiny garage. Luke Dolphin, the proprietor and chef has the reputation of being quite tempestuous but nevertheless hugely impressive and inspiring meal cooked exclusively in a wood-fired oven, cooked, served, bussed, and watered by two hands.
Sweet Pea
Another home away from home, with crumpets and scones in the patisserie window. Very good coffee with a view over the port of Ciboure. Right next door to the Sardine Epicerie, where you can pick up absolutely any regional treat you desire, from the best anchovies, to handmade soap, to rum soaked Pastis Landais cake.
La Cidrerie
The beauty of being on four wheels is you can fill the car with goodies from every stop you make. After tasting La Cidrerie cider in a nearby restaurant, the owner told us that is was made a mere 6 minute drive away, so we called the maker and asked if we could visit. Expecting a big production, we found Pierro and one cider making room, which makes it even more special to have scooted away with 12 bottles. (Possibly forgetting that we were taking the train home and therefore the magic of the car boot was slightly tainted). Also, 2,50 a bottle…!
Arotzenia
Un restaurant associatif, meaning a sort of charity style restaurant. All profits go back into itself and they work with a direct link to each producer in the region. One cow delivered every year, nose to tail style. We know the vegetables taste better when they are grown just up the road and cooked and plated simply but its nice to be reminded how much better!
La Rhune
Not a restaurant but a rec in any case. A big old hike up La Rhune cures all ailments. Especially in the spooky foggy conditions in which we climbed. Obligatory stop at Espelette to buy local chilli jam to pimp the cheese (Ossau Iraty) and ham (Jambon Kintoa) baguette.
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Back soon with more.
Merci beaucoup for reading and as always please share with hungry friends!